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BHABA PASS TREK
+ JEEP SAFARI Season : June September Max. Altitude : 4890 m.
From Rampur the highway enters one of the most exciting, and geologically active, stretches of road in the region. It is an attractive town, surrounded by high peaks, with a pheasant breeding centre nearby. Friendly villagers greet travellers, shops sell flowers, bright red and gold scarves and other offerings for worshippers among local produce, fancy goods, clothes and jewellery. Sarahan was the old capital of the local Rampur- Bushahr rulers and has a palace complex containing the strikingly carved wood bonded Bhimakali Temple (rebuilt in 1927 ), in a mixture of Hindu and Buddhist style. The Bhimakali is dedicated to Durga as the destroyer of the asuras (demons) According to some sources the ancient temple is many centuries old, built in traditional timber-bonded style it has white-washed dry stone and ruble masonry alternating with horizontal deodar or spruce beam to withstand earthquakes, the upper floors have balconies and windows with superb ornamental woodcarving; the silver repoussee work doors are also impressive. The first floor has a 200-year-old gold image of goddess Bhimakali. The palace of the Rampur rajas behind the temple has a drawing room with ornate furniture and a painted ceiling. The Pheasant Breeding Centre on a hill, a 1-Km walk from the main road, on a wooded trail, has Monal, Khalij, Western Trapogan and other varities in cages. On a clear day you get fantastic panoramic views of the snow covered peaks.
The valley carries the mark of a succession of glacial events although the glaciers which formed the valley have no retreated to the high slopes above Chitkul at over 4,500 m. All villages in Baspa are steeply sloping slate roofs, rich wood carving and elaborate pagoda temples, the valley is field of the pink coloured ogla, a small flower seeds grown specifically in the Baspa valley for grinding into grain, add a beautiful colouring in the season. Sangla Sangla village has excellent carving and is a full of character at 2,680 m. There is a saffron farm just north of Sangla, and it is famous for apples. The Baspa River has cut a deep trench on its south flank. The old seven-storey Killa (Fort, Kanru Fort), where the Kinnaur rajas were once crowned, is 1 Km north of new Sangla just before the road enters the village. It was occupied by the local rulers for centuries. It now has a temple to Kamakshi Devi. The climate is ideal. Chitkul (3,450 m) Chitkul, with its typical houses, Godess Durga and Buddhist temple and a small tower , is the furthest point. The Kagyupa (oral transmission School), has a highly valued, old image of the Shakyamuni Buddha. There are four directional king on either side of the door as well as a Wheel of Life. One can walk along the Baspa River which has path on both sides.
Tabo was one of the great centre of Buddhist, learning and culture. Founded in 996, the monastery is the oldest living Buddhist establishment in this. Today the small town is modernized with paved streets and electric lights. Chos Khor Gompa Founded in 996 as a scholastic institution, the Gompas original layout was planed as a mandala centred around a Du Khang (Assembly Hall) the Deodar wood used was imported from Kullu, Kinnaur, Chamba and Kashmir. Today the Gompa houses around 60 lamas and has a good collection of scriptures, thangkas and art pieces. Many of the colourful murals come close to the Indian style The technique required the surface to be coated with several thin layers of lime and yak-skin. Natural vegetable dyes and powdered stone colours were mixed with dzo milk and yak urine for painting, the later 17- century paintings illustrate the Central Tibetan. This is one of the few Gompas in the Tibetan Buddhist influenced areas of Ladakh, Lahaul and Spiti where the highly structured art of painting the complex Tibetan religious iconography is taught. Nine temples Tsuglhakhang (academy) the resplendent central Mahavairochana-a composite of four figures, each facing a cardinal direction, represents the unity of all Buddha. On the wall inside are stucco figures of different Buddhas and Bodhisattvas. Dri Tsang Khang (Inner Sanctum) and Kora (circumambulatory Path) at the centre of the mandala, the five Dhyani Buddhas escorted by four Bodhisattvas here. Dromton Lhakhang Chenpo 17 th century dominated by Medicine Buddhas, The ceiling, in high Tibetan style, is exceptional, depicting nagas, titans, peacocks and parrots amongst rainbows Ser Khang (Golden Temple) The walls were believed to have been coated with a layer of gold dust as thick as a yaks skin for painting the numerous larger-than life figures. They were renewed in 16-17 century. Chamba Chenpo La Khang Dedicated to the Maitrya (Future) Buddha, this temple has a 6-m high seated statue. The murals of the eight Buddhas may be some of the earliest in Tabo, to the north Pho Gompa, the only surviving, with early murals showing pure Indian influence, has been restored. On open ground to the east, on both sides of a dyke, there are pre-Buddhist rock carvings on metamorphosed igneous rocks showing ibex, swastikas, yonis, horses, panthers and human figures.
(3,890 m) Once the capital of Spiti, Dhankar is a tiny village. The early 16- century fort / monastery Dhankar Gompa, which once served as jail, stands on a impressive overhang, perched on crumbling tower. Today it has over160 lamas in residence. The highest temple has a collection of Bhotia Buddhist scriptures, a four in-one Dhyani Buddha and interesting murals of Medicine Buddhas and protector deities. Kaza Kaza at 3,600 m, is 13 Km from Lingti village, is a busy bus terminus with a small market. Kibber, 19 Km away has one of the words highest wildlife sanctuaries covering an area 98 sq Km, Kibber to Tashigang, 18 Km away, is one of the highest village in the world connected by road and electricity. Ki Monastery on the way is the largest in Spiti and houses 300 lamas. Although it has suffered from wars, fires and earthquakes it still has a good collection of thangkas and Kangyurs (scriptures).Ki monastery, 11 Km from Kaza.
Losar, at 4,079 m is the last village in Spiti reached after driving through fields growing peas and cabbage among poplars, willows and apple orchards. The road continues up for 18 Km to the Kunzum La (Pass) at 4,551 m , gives access to Lahul and good views of some of the highest peak of the Chandrabhaga , opposite the Kunzum La to the west To the southeast is the Karcha Peak (6,271 m).The pass has an ancient chorten marker. The temple to Gyephang , the president deity, is circumambulated by those crossing the pass; the giver of any offering in cash which stick to the stone image receives special blessing, the road does 19 hairpin bends to descent down to the rock strewn terrain to the valley of the Chandra to Batal, and on to Chhota Dara and Chhatru, and then Gramphoo joining the Manali-Keylong-Leh highway.
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